What is textile recycling?
Textile recycling is the process of recovering used clothing and other textiles and turning them into new products. This process helps to conserve natural resources and reduce waste, as well as supporting the production of new items in a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way. The process of textile recycling typically involves sorting, grading, and cleaning the textiles, followed by breaking them down into fibers that can be used to produce new products such as insulation, carpet padding, and even new clothing. Textile recycling also helps to reduce greenhouse gas emissions associated with the production of new textiles, as well as reducing the amount of waste that ends up in landfills.
Textile recycling methods
There are two dominant textile recycling methods: mechanical processing and chemical processing. Mechanical processing is mainly performed on regular fibers, while chemical processing focuses on synthetic fibers. There are more processing methods such as repurposing and donating.
- Mechanical recycling: This method involves breaking down the textile fibers into their raw materials, which can then be used to produce new textiles. This process can involve chopping, shredding, or grinding the textiles, and then spinning the fibers into new yarn.
- Chemical recycling: This method uses chemical processes to break down the textiles into their constituent parts, which can then be used to produce new fibers. For example, a process known as depolymerization can be used to dissolve the fibers and then reform them into new, usable fibers.
- Repurposing: This method involves taking used textiles and transforming them into new products without breaking down the fibers. For example, an old T-shirt could be cut up and turned into a reusable shopping bag.
- Donating or reusing: This method involves giving used textiles to organizations or individuals who can use them, either for their original purpose or for repurposing into new products. Donated clothing and other textiles can be used to support those in need, both domestically and internationally.
Textile recycling process
The process of textile recycling typically involves the following steps:
- Collection: Used textiles are collected from a variety of sources, including households, thrift stores, and clothing manufacturers.
- Sorting: The collected textiles are sorted into different categories, such as clothing, linens, and rags. This allows the recyclers to determine which textiles are suitable for mechanical recycling, chemical recycling, or repurposing.
- Cleaning: The textiles are cleaned to remove any dirt, stains, and other impurities.
- Grading: The cleaned textiles are graded based on their quality, color, and fiber content.
- Mechanical Recycling: If the textiles are suitable for mechanical recycling, they are broken down into fibers using processes such as chopping, shredding, or grinding.
- Chemical Recycling: If the textiles are suitable for chemical recycling, they are broken down into their constituent parts using chemical processes such as depolymerization.
- Repurposing: If the textiles are suitable for repurposing, they are transformed into new products without being broken down into fibers.
- Manufacturing: The recycled fibers are used to produce new textiles, such as clothing, linens, and rags.
This process helps to conserve natural resources, reduce waste, and support the production of new items in a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way.
POLYESTER RECYCLED FROM USED TEXTILES
Polyester can be recycled from used clothing (known as post-consumer) or from production off-cuts (known as pre-consumer). Polyester can be recycled both mechanically and chemically. In addition to being used to recreate thread, recycled polyester has numerous outlets: plastics processing, unwoven fabrics or fuels.
Mechanical polyester recycling: to create a polyester thread via a mechanical recycling process, materials must firstly undergo a melting stage to return the polymer to a liquid state. Granulation follows in order to form pellets. Once the polyester is returned to pellet state, it can undergo a classic spinning process.
Chemical polyester recycling: :to create a polyester thread via a chemical recycling process, materials must firstly undergo chemical dissolution to regenerate fibres. Fibres are depolymerised to bring them back to a monomer state. Following this treatment, the polyester can undergo a classic spinning process.
POLYESTER RECYCLED FROM PLASTIC BOTTLES
Products from industries other than the textile industry, such as the PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) plastic bottles, can be used to create a recycled polyester thread. The product most often made from recycled PET bottles is the fleece jacket. 27 PET bottles are necessary to make one fleece jacket.
PET bottles are collected then baled. They are sorted according to colour and opacity (only transparent, uncoloured bottles are recycled). The tops are separated from the bottle as the plastic is different. The bottles are then ground to obtain flakes.
These flakes are cleaned and undergo a thermal treatment process to take on the form of pellets. The pellets are melted to obtain a paste which is extruded in the form of a filament after passing through a die (plates with small holes). The filaments are coated then stretched to form a thread. The process permits a RPET thread to be obtained. (Recycled Polyethylene Terephthalate).
Plastic beverage bottles are packaged and shipped to the factory.
Collection of plastic bottles: The first step involves collecting used plastic bottles, typically made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET). These bottles can be collected through recycling programs, drop-off locations, or curbside pickup services.
Plastic bottles are broken into tiny flakes after cleaning.
Sorting and cleaning Once the bottles are collected, they must be sorted by type and color. Non-PET plastics and contaminants, such as labels and bottle caps, need to be removed. The bottles are then washed and cleaned to remove any remaining impurities, such as dirt or food residues. Shredding: After cleaning, the bottles are shredded into small flakes. This process makes it easier to process the plastic and turn it into a usable material.
Small pieces of plastic bottles are heated and stretched until they are cut into small particles.
Drying: The shredded plastic flakes are dried to remove any remaining moisture. This step is important for ensuring a consistent quality of the final product. Melting and extrusion: The clean, dry flakes are melted and extruded through a machine that transforms them into long, thin fibers. The fibers are then cooled and cut into small pellets, which are known as recycled PET (rPET) pellets.
Spinning: The rPET pellets are melted once again and extruded through a spinneret, a device with tiny holes that creates continuous filaments. These filaments are then cooled and wound onto spools, forming rPET yarn. Weaving or knitting: The rPET yarn is woven or knitted into fabric. This fabric can be made in various thicknesses and textures, depending on the desired characteristics of the final reusable shopping bag.
Dyeing and printing: The fabric can be dyed or printed with different colors and designs to make the bags more visually appealing. If printing is used, it’s important to choose environmentally friendly inks and printing processes. Cutting and sewing: The fabric is cut into the desired shape and size for the reusable shopping bags. The pieces are then sewn together to create the finished product.
Handles can be made from the same rPET fabric or from other materials, such as cotton or hemp. Quality control and packaging: The completed bags are inspected for quality and any defects. They are then folded, packed, and shipped to retailers or directly to customers. By using recycled plastic bottles to create reusable shopping bags, we can reduce the amount of waste in landfills and decrease the demand for new plastic production. This process is just one example of how we can repurpose waste materials into useful, sustainable products.
The environmental impact of textile waste
To this day, only a tiny fraction of discarded textiles is recycled. While the clothing industry has doubled production in the last 15 years, the time garments are worn has fallen by more than 30%. At the same time, the rising demand for low-cost fast fashion is driving a decline in the quality of the materials, which makes them more difficult to re-use or recycle. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, it is estimated that 114 million tonnes of textile waste are generated every year. Of the clothing that is collected for recycling, 12% is downcycled into lower-value applications such as insulation material, and less than 1% is used to make new clothing in a closed-loop circular economy. The high content of polyester in fast fashion also means that an increasing quantity of discarded textiles are incinerated in waste-to-energy plants because of its high calorific value.
The rising consumption of clothing, coupled with the decreasing wearing time and increasing use of synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon, is worsening the negative impact on the environment. Large quantities of plastic microfibres shed through the washing of textiles are leaked into the ocean, accounting for 35% of microplastic pollution. Improper disposal can also result in flat textiles released into the environment, endangering wildlife on land and marine life.
Regulatory drive for the development of textile recycling
Policymakers have a key role to play in driving an increase in recycling. In Europe, in 2022 the Commission presented an EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles4, which includes extending the lifetime of textiles by recycling the materials they contain into new quality products. The revised Waste Framework Directive requires EU member countries to establish systems for separate collection of textile waste by the beginning of 2025, and at the same time, new collection and recycling targets will kick in. The infrastructure for collecting, sorting and recycling these materials will need to expand fast in readiness for the new regulations.
Innovations in textile recycling
One of the biggest problems in the circular economy is the increasing quantity of fashion waste because of the ever-expanding consumption economy. Hence, innovations in textile recycling are of such importance because these innovations can help diminish this rising pressure on the circular economy.
There have been several recent innovations in the field of textile recycling, including:
- Chemical Recycling: Researchers and companies are developing new chemical recycling methods that can break down textiles into their constituent parts at a molecular level, making it possible to produce new, high-quality fibers from used textiles.
- Closed Loop Recycling: Companies are working on creating closed-loop recycling systems in which used textiles are collected, recycled, and then used to produce new products, all within the same system. This helps to ensure that textile waste is reduced, and that resources are conserved.
- Digital Traceability: With the increasing use of digital technologies, companies are developing systems that can track the lifecycle of textiles, from their production to their end-of-life. This helps to improve transparency and accountability in the textile recycling industry, and to ensure that textiles are recycled in a responsible and sustainable way.
- Recycled Fiber Blends: Companies are developing new blends of recycled fibers that can be used to produce high-quality, sustainable textiles. These blends can include a mixture of recycled cotton, polyester, and other fibers, and can help to reduce the use of virgin materials in the production of new textiles.
Recycled polyester is sustainable or not?
Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fiber. While much attention is given to rPET made from plastic bottles and containers thrown away by consumers. In reality, polyethylene terephthalate can be recycled from both post-industrial and post-consumer input materials. But, just to give an example, five soda bottles yield enough fiber for one extra-large T-shirt.
Let’s make a pros and cons of recycled polyester.
PROs of Recycled Polyester
1. Keeping plastics from going to landfill and the ocean
Plastic has been found in 60 percent of all seabirds and 100 percent of all sea turtle species because they mistake plastic for food.
Taking plastic waste and turning it into a useful material is very important for humans and our environment
2. rPET is just as good as virgin polyester but takes fewer resources to make
Recycled polyester is almost the same as virgin polyester in terms of quality, but its production requires 59 percent less energy compared to virgin polyester, according to a 2017 study by the Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.
CONs of Recycled Polyester
1. Recycling has its limitations
Many garments are not made from polyester alone, but rather from a blend of polyester and other materials. In that case, it is more difficult, if not impossible, to recycle them.
Even clothes that are 100 percent polyester can’t be recycled forever.
After all, even though rPET takes 59 percent less energy to produce than virgin polyester, it still requires more energy than hemp, wool, and both organic and regular cotton, according to a 2010 report from the Stockholm Environment Institute
2. The process of recycling PET impacts the environment, too
The chips generated by mechanical recycling can vary in color: some turn out crispy white, while others are creamy yellow, making color consistency difficult to achieve. Inconsistency of dye uptake makes it hard to get good batch-to-batch color consistency and this can lead to high levels of re-dyeing, which requires high water, energy, and chemical use
3. Recycled polyester releases microplastics
A paper published in 2011 in the journal Environmental Science Technology found that microfibers made up 85 percent of human-made debris on shorelines around the world. It doesn’t matter if garments are from virgin or recycled polyester, they both contribute to microplastics pollution.
Recycled polyester, often called rPet, is made from recycled plastic bottles. It is a great way to divert plastic from our landfills. The production of recycled polyester requires far fewer resources than that of new fibers and generates fewer CO2 emissions.
There are 2 ways to recycle polyester: For mechanical recycling, plastic is melted to make new yarn. This process can only be done a few times before the fiber loses its quality. Chemical recycling involves breaking down the plastic molecules and reforming them into yarn. This process maintains the quality of the original fiber and allows the material to be recycled infinitely, but it is more expensive.
A recycled polyester is definitely a sustainable option for our wardrobe. However, we need to be aware that it is still non-biodegradable and takes years to disappear once thrown away.
